BMW G650 XCountry – Spark plugs

Often the simple things as stated by BMW which makes them really simple are not as simple if:
#1. You do not have previous experience (Novice or little experience)
#2. All the tools [BMW are really shit and kinky about their own tools and sizing(unique)]
#3. Creative mindset to get around them or forget about it.

Surely, that there are endless blogs available on how-to but this one is for my own keep and anyone else who is to do this for the first time or repeat looking at nitty gritty.

My G650 XCo was acquired some 5years back and since then barely much was ever done, but was ridden for a good while and about 15000kms in between those 5 years until now.
Previous owner history, was through the service book as it seems all BMW services done were on intervals but something not quite right. Perhaps the bike has been sat too long between its active usage. I will write down the other issues as encountered in a another thread.

This was not purely an activity for Spark Plugs change but more to do with Cam Tensioner change, that is covered here in this blog. I decided to keep a track of this for only spark plugs replacement.

So to start with as little and as much, please note that following tools are needed:

• 18mm Spark plug socket (I somehow believed it was in my kit, but wasn’t) – check yours + a long deep arm to reach the Spark plugs. [Alternative to buy or an another cheaper option would be this]
  
• Special R-ring breaker tool (I hate those BMW hose clamps, extremely unpractical, so get them to normal screw driver hose clamps, found everywhere in a hardware shop). Take a note that once these clamps have been removed, you cannot re-use them. These R-rings are an extremely stupid idea by BMW!
  
• Coil Remover (I did not have this tool, but used a normal adjustable wrench for a coil undoing. You can order one from here or use the way I used the wrench to pull it out.
  
• Main stand or getting bike to be stable while you work on, is not a necessity but an extreme help. So anything would do that holds it in place.

Access to the Spark Plugs:

• Remove the plastic panels on the left, right, center [This is an easier bit, with an hex key, should be [10mins], you need smaller hex key to remove the front two top hex nuts on top of the radiator, holding the main plastic component] – In total, 8 bigger hex nuts, and 2 smaller hex nuts. (one of the small hex nuts, can be left in main tank tank part holding the small plastic part – the one above the radiator, loosen it up to just slide out easily.)
• Removing the Battery. [About 5mins, careful if your battery is stuck and need extra force, ensure the bike is well in its position] Remove from the terminal connections. You need to remove the battery as it sits in the air box chamber basket.
• Undoing the air temperature connector sensor wire on the let side.[2mins] You may need a nose plier to pull that clip out on the sensor and then it just slides out easily. Pull out the complete metal clip.
• Remove the relays mounted on the rubber mounts hanging from the airbox[2mins]. Easily done.
• Breather hose [5mins] . Additionally, when removing it may not be possible to keep the breather hose in its place and harder to get it back in easily. I cut the cable ties on this breather hose and removed it from the right bottom front corner. Easier to let it slide down next time when redoing to reverse the process.
• Remove the air box chamber [About 10mins, two hex nuts on the main front fork frame and two on the base near the seat]
  Note: The front two nuts are different sizes, good to know from the beginning so you won’t hassle up like me in the end.
• Lifting up the complete airbox that connects to throttle body[2-3mins]. There was little struggle to pull it apart but is normal as long as all else has been followed above.

This now gives you a clear view of the top of the cylinder.

Note the positioning of the Spark plugs, this is where from all previous posts and forums I gathered this has to be in very specific position but I don’t see how or why it would make a difference. The coils are same inside and the positioning is rather to ensure that wires are in right place.
Note: The black coil is to the inner side of the engine and the grey one on the outer towards the frame.

Pulling out the coils, BMW reprom says, use special tool(as mentioned above) but after trying to be careful and without a tool, it was rather the case, of carefully pulling out the coils with the adjustable wrench

User an extra cloth in the mouth holding the top of the coil to ensure this is not too hard but was fine to get the coils pulled out.

You now have the full view of the spark plugs accessibility. Should be easier and simple but take a note of the tools and alternatives as may not always be the case, you have them all.

It so happens that my friend who offered me all his tools and garage, didn’t have an 18mm socket so it was going not so well, but then there was somewhere in the old heap of tools, he found a worn out 18mm which required an extra work but now, I know I have to buy a 18mm spark plug socket. Just a self note!

Coming to finally, the spark plugs.
I got the Iridium spark plugs to replace the old NGK one. It was in a pretty bad shape as the previous owner possibly didn’t take care of it or they seemingly have never been replaced before (I would say so looking at them)!!

NGK Iridium Spark plugs comparison

You need to have a long enough arm on your socket to get down to the spark plugs. Just a caution if you have old traditional 18mm, it may not be enough on its own without a long arm going down.

Another pointer that surprised me was that the new NGK Iridium plugs didn’t have that round metal cap on its end but threads. So I was glad that my friend had them on his other spare spark plugs, these caps but I am suprised these ones didn’t come with these caps and my old spark plug was a fixed one, that means, when the old cap was tried to be removed, it break the whole long metal inside and these are not replaceable from all old spark plugs if you don’t have them.

Better to be aware than to be sorry when working on this “Simple” task! not that as I thought it looked in the Reprom, hey 10mins jobby, no please do not count on what the reprom tells, it looks very simple but NOT!!

Once you have had everything out, this would be a reverse process on its own to get back everything in order.

In my case, I was going for two more additional items, first one being easier to do – cleaning up idle actuator, while the other one, cam tensioner replacement was going to be fun! You can follow my next write up on that one.

Additional reference: 
Spark plugs – I found a cheaper discount going on spark plugs, so I was of the notion to buy an extra pair right now. So, I had to check if I can just buy and keep them for future use. I found out this is fairly possible to keep the spark plugs and they will remain the way they are without any issues. Feel free to store them in a dry place, if you may be wondering this works  good. Yes, they have long storage life when stored in a dry place and the needle is kept secured, best to leave them in the original packaging.

Technical inputs 
Tightening torques 0164 – G 650 Xcountry
12 12 011 Renewing all spark plugs  +12 12 513
Spark plugs Tightening torque Value 23 Nm

 

Samyang 14mm F2.8 – Nikon Mount – ED AS IF UMC

16.01.15, London –  Samyang 14mm F2.8 ED AS IF UMC Ultra Wide Angle Lens on the Nikon FX Mount. After using 24-70 F2.8mm and going wide with 20mm F2.8 I wanted to go even wider to the widest possible and that was pushing me to the 14mm. I didn’t have the budget neither a wish to put that much into a lens which would not see the light of the day in regular use and not be used extensively to be given a price of a Nikon ultra wides. I decided to move off the Nikon to give myself a chance to try something different.

With the valid reasons that ultra wide justifies you more in the travel scenarios and ultra wide scenarios which works awesome on the big MegaPixels guzzlers like Nikon D800\D800E\D810. I took a jump and ordered the new Samyang 14mm F2.8 via Amazon UK and it was sharp for a normal delivery cycle. Second day on the Free delivery is a good service. It didn’t put a hole in my savings as it was moderately priced for a wide angle F2.8. It is nearly 1/5th price of a Nikon F2.8. I will not call it a downside if you are using manual on such wide angle as you are possibly not going to do action shots that requires you to sharp focus on the moving objects. I have grown up through the ages as a child using the manual focus lenses and it doesn’t stops me from going back to Manual focus again. It is a old school thought but in all honesty that price makes me have a kick and put it to the test.

On the first impressions, out of the box – It is a very good quality light and solidly put together lens. The petal hood is plastic but well covered in its shell to avoid any damages to the lens. I do love the way you feel when you hold it. Here is the small unboxing video of it.

In terms of sharpness and quality of the images – there is indeed a flaw around the lines. You do not get the same straight lines but that is the case in all the ultra wide angle lenses. Here is the sample image at F2.8 without any editting and straight from the sensor of 36mpx D810.

Original Image from the Samyang 14mm F2.8 – Unedited mounted on the Nikon D810 at ISO 100. Handheld.

With low to medium light I do not find this lens to be any problems with Fringing. I would certainly see a different aspect when I would have to test this in the sunny day against the fringing. There is a slight moderation with edges that they are not sharp as you would expect them to be but if you look in the image above in its full resoltion I do not find this to be an issue in my perspective. Also the FX sensors offers huge potential to crop your image to the likings. Looking at the sharpness perspective if you look at the sign posts – there lines and the sharpness of the text is as clear as you would like it to be. The lens weighs in at 530gms for Nikon mount. Canon mount is 552gms.

In terms of using this lens for video\Cine use there is another version which is similar or actually less than the price of the photo lens and the difference is in the focus ring on cine is different and it is measured in T points instead of F point.

Happy to answer any questions you may have and feel free to share the article and give me thumbs up if you liked the video or needs any additional inputs.

Moving earth

Nothing around us is so still as we may see it and what we may see to be still is not still enough as this earth itself is moving.

To the nature and beauty we are its ants – who feel too big

Too tiny to control anything above or below our feet.

 

& the picnic setup spot that brought all the motion of moving earth is –

GoPro 3 – The Excitement – Questions and the wait

I am quite sure that by now, more than half of the world already knows what GoPro is and what they make. For the ones who may still not know will know a lot more after reading this post. I have been thinking about it from a long time if I shall make a jump and spend these few hundred quids getting my hands on these small little geeky inventions which capture all your motion pictures in amazing quality.

Another reason, I want to get one is for my own safety on the road. On Friday, 21st June 2013 –  I was knocked on from my right with the impact on my right leg, the side of my motorcycle and left front of the car. It was slow speed at 2omph filtering through standstill traffic on motorway(A1M) heading north. Although, I was very very lucky to come off it unhurt in a nasty manner – Not that I don’t ride safe but because someone else’s mistake – I was about to lose my limb or even more – not sure if it matters now but it sure left me with a experience of a lifetime to remember once again. I ride to live and not ride to show-off so there is a difference in me being a motorcyclist. Motorcycle is my only way to life – for it constitutes my only way of transportation.  Going back to the topic – GoPro has been on my mind for quite long time but now I do feel the need for it even more.

So before I go buy one, I had several questions in my head about what I shall buy. There are already plenty of alternatives similar to the GoPro cameras but I prefer to stick with the known branded option as I have had no self experience with these little gadgets. The best I have used so far is the FULL HD on my Nokia Lumia 920 but I am restricted to use it on the move due to its size and shape. I want to mount it and be free from the fear of letting it fall off on the move. I have done my bit of homework but still I have no answers to few questions which I will find out once I get on with it.

I intend to use it for everyday move in and out from London all year long so it better be reliable, rugged and waterproof. So my basic conditions would have to be met and they are offered in GoPro by default. So which version, model and mounts. Huh, there is endless heap of information to dig when you go finding GoPro3 but it really is a heap to dig at. Some of the questions which I really still struggle to find answers even after 3 days of digging is very vague. So, I know what to find when I get it first and share it out.

So, after all the research, pricing and careful thinking I had to decide with the top of the range GoPro3 Black Version – which basically has the so called best resolution of this modern day and age in its little tiny camera which you can fit anywhere(almost) when you are on the move. I ordered mine online after finding the cheapest deal for £250.99 which actually retails at £359.99 + £11 Shipping reaching £370 on the GoPro website itself.  Now, this is the first time I am ordering from a different source so I am still bit anxious but the reviews on the website and other online sources gave me a piece of mind while ordering it.

Now, I have few questions in my head which are not very clearly answered anywhere – point to point.
How much time does it take to charge a GoPro3 battery pack ?
How long does the battery pack lasts on different modes under different weather conditions ?
How stable and smooth the vibrations are handled by GoPro3 ?
How many mounts shall I buy / what is the best possible positions ?
Is after market battery packs an option ?
How much space would it use on the 32Gb Class 10 UHS-1  Micro SD card ?
How do I play with the GoPro Remote while I am on the move ?

I have already downloaded the GoPro 3 app on the phone to see the live view when it is mounted so at least in that regards I should be well off. Also, awaiting for SANDISK 32GB Class10 UHS-1 Micro SD card which should be with me shortly. So in total  a bit of expensive thing to start with. But I am hopeful this should yield me something good and creative to share. To bring all those exotic British landscapes while I ride through them in all the good /bad /ugly weather conditions.

For Now, it is just the waiting period. Photos and videos will be shared once I get the order. Since I am not a video person in terms of shooting and editing – I will be on a new learning curve to understand all the technical depths of modern resolutions by doing it myself. Although in the meanwhile, I am considerate reading the reviews from all those who bought this and have experienced battery issues. Definitely, more battery packs needed.  We shall see it all once I get it.